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The Engineering That Go's Into A High Heel Shoe.


Eager2heel

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As a design engineer I always look at what go's into making stuff. I can just imagine all the things that must be checked to design a high heel shoe. Just the fact that it does not slip off when walking must have been a lot of work. Then making the sole of the shoe strong so it does not twist. And the heel has to be just in the right place to make the shoe wearable. I am sure there are lots of other things that must be finished. And I do not think comfort was high on the list for any shoe designer.

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I suspect it's as much an art as it is a science ;)

I agree wholeheartedly with that statement!

I don't want to LOOK like a woman, I just want to DRESS like a woman!

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There have been so many really gorgeous high heeled footwear styles that are only memories in some minds as individuals happen to see them on display. When was a teenager, my dad had some time to take a paid vacation from work and he chose to visit some relatives in another state. While we were there an occasion arose to venture into an established shoe shop where many heels were on display. I was particular fascinated over a pair of classic styled black patent pumps that had an interesting toe box treatment. They were pointed closed toes with 6 pleated folds (3 on each side of the toe box) radiating over the sides from the throat of the vamp cut. The craftsmanship and quality of these classic heels were "to die for" and if there had been a way for me to bring them back with me, I'd probably have them today. However, I was a long way from home, I had no funds, and my parents were totally against any of my high heel desires, so all I have are the memories of these gorgeous spike pumps. I have combed many of the appropriate magazines and other shoe fashion books from back then to some how find a picture and some information about them, but to no avail.

 

There has got to be a way to find such information about the types of footwear from the past and recreate them for marketing in today's fashion scene. The basic details of making them has already been done, so it is just the production and sales that need attending. 

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Yes, there is quite a lot of science, engineering and mathematics that goes into a shoe design.

 

For example, the throat of a pump is located in exactly the place which is worked out mathematically as well as the height of the back counter. If you lower the throat you have to increase the counter height and vice versa.

 

The pitch of the heel has to be one that matches the seat of the last. Often heels are made to fit specific lasts and you need to quote the MPN of the last to the heel manufacturer so they can supply the correct heel. The problem comes when you have old lasts for which the records have been lost, bespoke lasts and lasts made in the Far East. You might quote a number that relates to a 5" last and you get heels to fit a 3" last!

 

Then you have a stiffener in a shoe called a shank. This will be made from fluted spring steel and deliberatly designed to be 100% rigid and in combination with the insole board makes a completely rigid structure.

 

Pull on boots have to be designed so you can get your foot into it. zip up boots only need to be designed to fit. As I said, pumps have to have the dimensions carefully figured out.

 

This is why being able to draw pretty pictures of shoes does not make one a designer.

Graduate footwear designer able to advise and assist on modification and shoe making projects.

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