Compatible adhesives for cobblers:

Ionic · 21st September 2003, 20:14

I have carefully preserved a vintage shoe from the late 70s. It is a male oxford in grey with a 3inch dark wood effect stack block heel. No platform at all but a stout real leather sole which makes quite a noise on the footpath.

Sadly the adhesives are now rotting and the heel and part of the sole section of the right shoe has parted from the main upper. So I need to reglue the leather closing to the plastic semi-hollow composite heel and sole unit.

Which are the most compatible adhesives and which to avoid?

/I

Dr. Shoe · 21st September 2003, 22:10

Without seeing the shoes, I would say that Evo-Stik or or Bostik contact adhesive would be the best.

Put a thin coat on bothe the surfaces and leave to dry (4 hours or more).

Next put on another thin coat and leave until "tacky", heat it over an electric stove (a gas one will burn the leather) for a couple of seconds, no more than 5 seconds then press together as firmly as possible.

Do not try to short-cut the process by putting thicker layers of glue on as this will soon part and you serve no practical purpose by putting more than one "foundation coat" on.

Firefox · 21st September 2003, 22:48

Good advice Dr Shoe. I was having this discussion with Ionic on a park bench in Russell Square of all places last Sat. I also mentioned light clamping, in perhaps a vice with cloth padding on the jaws and doing dry runs to intimately know the fit of the pieces you are fixing. Be very careful to allow contact adhesive to dry out. Don't treat it like an epoxy as the solvent will not evapourate properly, and the bond will be weak.

Ionic · 22nd September 2003, 10:35

Thanks Doc., I thought it was worth documenting the conversation I had with Firefox here and you have added considerablely more. There was a thought that professional versions of Evostick might be better but I expect there is little difference.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Shoe

Put a thin coat on both the surfaces and leave to dry (4 hours or more).

That is what is so difficult about handling those very sticky contact adhesives....

/I

Firefox · 22nd September 2003, 13:05

You can always use a spreader to get a nice thin even coat. It won't affect the final bond while the solvent is still active.

Dr. Shoe · 22nd September 2003, 21:35

Calv · 22nd September 2003, 23:59

Make sure you get the solvent based version of Evo-stik not the newer water based version -no goood for sniffing - or sticking!! I only have experience of the latter..

Bubba136 · 23rd September 2003, 16:16

I recently repaired a place on a pair of my most comfortable shoes with a product called "Gorilla Glue." http://www.gorillaglue.com/ Following the directions exactly, I put some on the place where the upper shoe seperated from the sole (the stitching came lose) and clamped it for about 4 hours. So far, it seems to be doing the job.

http://www.gorillaglue.com/assets/tagline_home.gif

Ionic · 23rd September 2003, 16:40

what a hoot! Well I'll look out for any passing gorillas in our inner city urban ecosystem...

sounds a bit like a less foamy version of "Fixafoam".

has anyone worked with hot melt glue guns? I've never messed with one myself.

/I

Dr. Shoe · 25th September 2003, 23:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ionic

what a hoot! Well I'll look out for any passing gorillas in our inner city urban ecosystem...

sounds a bit like a less foamy version of "Fixafoam".

has anyone worked with hot melt glue guns? I've never messed with one myself.

/I

Fine for sticking thick items together but gan harden in ridges which could be problematicall with thin soles and the like.